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July 20th, 1974 > Phase 1 > August 15th, 1974 > Phase 2

Turkish military troops invade in The Republic of Cyprus and occupy the Northern part of the island.

More than 200,000 Greek Cypriots become refugees into their own land, their own country. They are forced to leave from their towns and villages where they were born and raised, generation after generation.

More than 1,500 Greek Cypriots are still considered as missing persons.

32 years since 1974. Cyprus is a divided island. Nicosia, the capital city, is the only divided city in Europe.

Still little progress has been made in the political arena.

We do not forget. The borders do not stop in the military check points. The borders go beyond, like they used to be, before July 1974.

We do not forget. We do not forget.

For 32 years Cyprus is a divided country. Let freedom and justice and peace restored back. Now!

The following two articles are reprinted from their original sources. The writers talk about what they have seen during their visits to the northern, turkish occupied, part of The Republic of Cyprus, a member country of the European Union. The only country which is divided. For 32 years.

Some pictures have been added to our Flickr photo gallery. Review them. The articles which follow are copyrighted material, same applies to the photos posted.

The other side of Cyprus
by JAY L. ABRAMOFF, THE JERUSALEM POST  Jun. 24, 2006

Only a 40-minute flight away, north Cyprus may seem somewhat familiar to an Israeli traveler, but it is oh so different.

This isn’t the Greek Cypriot-controlled Republic of Cyprus, which is a member of the European Union and enjoys international recognition. The southern part of Cyprus has been a popular vacation destination for Israelis for years, but only 330 Israelis entered north Cyprus in 2005, according to the de facto government’s Ministry of Tourism.

North Cyprus - or the Turkish Republic of North Cyprus, which was declared in 1983 and is only recognized by Turkey - has been in political and economic isolation since 1974, when Turkish forces landed on the island. A cease-fire between the Turkish/Turkish Cypriot forces and the Greek/Greek Cypriot forces established the Green Line - a term that should also sound familiar to Israelis.

The Green Line was a closed border from 1974-2004. Anyone wishing to travel to north Cyprus had to fly or cruise via Turkey.

Since 2004, when the Republic of Cyprus was admitted to the EU and forced to open its border to the north, it has been possible to fly into Larnaca and then cross into north Cyprus via one of the border crossings, including two - one for cars and one for pedestrians and bicycles - in Nicosia itself.

Nicosia, a divided city, serves as capital of both the Republic of Cyprus and the TRNC. The Old City of Nicosia is also divided and the Arabahmet district is being restored with aid from the EU and the US. There are no regular shows at the Museum of Whirling Dervishes, but a group does visit and perform once a year.

The Selimiye Mosque is unique because the orientation of the mosque - which has to face Mecca - is not in line with the design of the building, which had been intended to be used as a church (Saint Sophia Cathedral).

Fresh food and gifts are available from the stalls of the Bedestan, a covered open-air market.

The restored Great Inn now houses artists and craftspeople and, as throughout its history, is a nice place to stop for a meal. The outdoor caf serves the local versions of burekas - including meat, halumi cheese and sweet cheese “boregi” - which are prepared from scratch.

The local cuisine also has similarities to Israel: meze includes humous, tehina and other salads; different types of kebab; stuffed leaves and vegetables; and Turkish coffee.

Fish dishes dominate restaurant and caf menus but there are few markets that sell fresh fish to the general public; the eateries seem to have cornered the market.

Cyprus has its own species of potato of which it is quite proud - and rightly so, at least based on the French fries. Citrus fruit is a major crop, and locally-made marmalades are a must-try. In general, the local food and fruit is of high quality. Efes Pilsner from Turkey is by far the most prominent brand of beer, and the quality of the Turkish wines is surprising.

Other sights to see in the Old City of Nicosia include the Arabahmet mosque, Kyrenia Gate and Lapidary Museum.

OFF THE HIGHWAY from Nicosia to Kyrenia, which passes through the Kyrenia - or Five Finger Mountains (Pentadaktylos Mountains), sits the Saint Hilarion Castle, one of three mountain castles in north Cyprus.

The castle in Kyrenia itself and the city’s harbor are two of north Cyprus’s biggest draws. The castle, which has two sets of walls, a Byzantine chapel, a shipwreck museum and a dungeon, dominates the harbor, which is now mostly restaurants and cafes and is the perfect setting for a romantic dinner.

Slightly off the beaten path, the interested traveler will also find bars and nightclubs that some locals may be trying to keep to themselves.

A short drive from Kyrenia is the village of Bellapais, the site of an impressive Gothic abbey and from where it is possible, and even recommended, to relax at one of the cafes and gaze out toward the Kyrenia plain and blue waters of the Mediterranean.

There is no choice in north Cyprus but to soak in the exquisite charm of an area that for the most part has been neglected by the outside world for three decades.

Heading west from Kyrenia past the considerable amount of construction of apartments and villas - a byproduct of north Cyprus’s improved international political and economic situation over the last few years - there are charming restaurants right on the clear waters of the Mediterranean on the way toward Morphu and Lefke.

The St. Mamas Church in Morphu houses an archaeological and natural history museum and the Vuni Palace and Soli ruins lie further west near Lefke. At Vuni, which is located almost at the western tip of North Cyprus, a “lone ranger” keeps an eye out for forest fires. While the mosaics at Soli are disintegrating with no money to preserve them, the amphitheater at Soli is still in use and is just one of many spectacular settings in north Cyprus for concerts.

If you are looking for a place to get away from it all, the Karpaz Peninsula is where you want to go. This mostly undeveloped area is the easternmost section of the island of Cyprus, and stretches toward Turkey, Lebanon and Syria. But you don’t have to be completely out of touch if you choose not to; cell phones with international roaming capabilities work here.

Karpaz is almost entirely rural and agricultural, and the accommodations here consist of boutique hotels and bungalows on the pristine beaches. The area is a nature lover’s paradise, with impressive biological diversity, including 1,600 species of plants, 350 species of birds and 26 species of reptiles and amphibians. Cyprus, like Israel, is located along one of the main bird migration routes between Eastern Europe and Africa. The peninsula is home to two types of strictly-protected endangered turtle species and a wild donkey reservation has been established here as well.

In addition to the natural beauty, places of interest include the ruins at Sipahi, the Apostoles Andreas Monastery at the eastern tip of the peninsula and the fishing village of Bogaz.

ALONG THE eastern coast of north Cyprus, on the road from Karpaz toward Famagusta, is Salamis, north Cyprus’s most impressive archaeological site. It would be quite easy to spend a whole day here.

As is common throughout north Cyprus, Salamis has only been partially excavated, as hardly any archaeological work has been performed since 1974.

However, what has been unearthed includes the gymnasium, a theater that used to be able to hold 15,000 in 50 rows of seats, the market (Agora), three Byzantine basilicas and the ancient Roman port. The Romans were obsessed with baths, so there are also plenty of these, along the walls and roofs of which are colorful mosaics.

One interesting note about Salamis is that the area’s Jews were expelled around 120 CE after they committed a massacre against the Roman inhabitants.

Close to Salamis is the Saint Barnabas Monastery, which also houses an archaeological museum. From 1974-2003, Greek Cypriots were not allowed to cross the Green Line and could not visit this and other Greek Orthodox sites in north Cyprus. The Apostoles Andreas Monastery and the Saint Barnabas Monastery are examples of Greek Orthodox places of worship that are now objects of pilgrimage.

Famagusta, which is located near the border with the south on the eastern shore of the island, is where British mandatory authorities established camps for Jews fleeing the Holocaust and post-World War II Europe who were attempting to reach Palestine.

The Citadel, or Othello’s Tower, guards the harbor and the town. According to local legend, Famagusta has never surrendered to attacking forces.

Within the Venetian walls, the Saint Nicholas Cathedral - now known as Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque - is the largest medieval building in Famagusta. The fig tree in front was supposedly planted in 1299 CE, making it the oldest living thing in Cyprus.

Saint Nicholas Cathedral is one of 17 churches within the town walls. After the Crusaders were driven out of Jerusalem and Palestine, many Christian sects sought refuge in Cyprus.

Outside the Old City walls, modern Famagusta includes a very real symbol of the most recent military activity on the island. The district of Varosha is now a ghost town, lying on the Green Line. An entire section of the city is closed off, and stands as a stark reminder of the past and current political situation. Bombed-out beachfront hotels and apartments can be seen from the re-opened Palm Beach Hotel.

As north Cyprus slowly emerges from 30 years of isolation, it may become more commercialized, even though a government official seemed sincere in his commitment to “sustainable tourism” and “eco-tourism.” This may be the best time to visit the northern part of the so-called “Island of Love.”

The writer was a guest of the KOBI Center, which is supported by the EDGE project, implemented by BearingPoint and funded by USAID.

This article can also be read at http://www.jpost.com/servlet/Satellite?cid=1150885837677&pagename=JPost%2FJPArticle%2FShowFull

The ghost city of Cyprus
by Jonathan Gorvett in Famagusta
Sunday 09 July 2006
 
Varosha has stood empty for 32 years 

With Turkish and Greek Cypriot leaders meeting for the first time in two years last week – and a UN special envoy on the island – many are wondering if a new round of talks aimed at reunification may now be on the cards.

Yet there are some major obstacles that have to be overcome before any such talks occur. Foremost would be what to do with one of the island’s eeriest monuments to inter-communal violence - the ghost city of Varosha.

Once a tourist destination rivalling Spain’s Marbella and Majorca, this southern part of the ancient port city of Famagusta has been a virtual ghost town since 1974.

About 15,000 largely Greek Cypriot inhabitants fled after Turkish troops invaded the island - an attack launched in response to a coup attempt by Greek nationalists aiming to adjoin the island to Greece.

Turkish forces occupied Varosha, but then withdrew, putting up a ring of barbed wire and barricades around it. For 32 years, it has stood empty, save for the odd Turkish guard post, group of sunbathing officers and stray cat.

Memories

Prodromos Papavassilou, who was born and raised in the town, says he remembers it “every minute, every hour and every day”. Now, along with many thousands of other former residents, he lives in the largely Greek Cypriot south of the island.

Varosha is in the south of the ancient port city of Famagusta
 
“It was the richest and one of the most beautiful towns of the island,” he says, “with the best beach, pure golden sands with shallow waters.”

Metin Sahinoglu, the Turkish Cypriot manager of the Palm Beach hotel, one of the few hotels in Famagusta from before 1974 still operating, agrees.

“In my childhood, it was a city that never slept. There were streets of bars, restaurants, clubs – it was the liveliest place on the island.”

From the Palm Beach hotel, which lies in the Turkish Cypriot north of the island, one of the Eastern Mediterranean’s greatest beaches curves south in a series of ever-widening arcs. Yet walk 100 metres from the luxury hotel terrace and barbed wire cuts across the rows of sunshades and lounge chairs.

South of this twisted metal line stand dozens of skyscrapers and seafront hotels, stretching as far as the eye can see. This is Centre Beach, once famous for its hordes of German and British tourists during the summer months. Now, its kilometres of exclusive waterfront are empty and abandoned.

Nature invades

And behind the rusted barbed wire and oil drums that wall off the suburb, the dead streets are overgrown with fantastically unkempt trees, cactus and bougainvillea.

Old Greek street names poke through the shadows on bullet scared walls. Cars from the 1970s lie where they were abandoned after city residents took flight for fear of a massacre in July 1974.

“It was the richest and one of the most beautiful towns of the island, with the best beach, pure golden sands with shallow waters”

Prodromos Papavassilou, born and raised in Varosha.
 
“They felt no one would protect them,” recalls Yiannakis Skordis, the Famagustan mayor-in-exile of Varosha who lives in Limassol, in the Greek Cypriot south.

“The only thing they could do was run. Around Famagusta were many orange groves, so the population hid in those, but the bombs kept falling. They still all thought they would be going back to their homes in 10 days, though.”

Today, many thousands of former residents remain on the island, scattered among other Greek Cypriot communities – still waiting to go back.

“I used to have nightmares for many years about going back there, imagining the devastation I would find,” says Skordis, “Many of the buildings there were from the 19th century and were so beautiful.

“Every morning too, Centre Beach was cleaned and the streets washed with water. The best musicians and artists on Cyprus and from Europe and the Levant would go there. We loved our city. It was 20 years ahead of its time, ahead of the rest of the island.”

Unknown fate

But the city’s fate has since lain in the lengthy debate between Turkish and Greek Cypriot leaders.

The invading Turkish army put up barbed wire and barricades.
 
“It’s said by many people that the Turkish side has kept the city closed as a bargaining chip with the Greek Cypriots,” says Tim Potier, an assistant professor of law and human rights at Nicosia’s Intercollege.

“If the Greeks give them something, they can have the city back. But so far, the Greek Cypriots have refused to take the bait.”

The Turkish invasion of 1974 led to the de facto division of the island between a Turkish Cypriot north and a Greek Cypriot south.

Only the Greek Cypriot dominated southern Republic of Cyprus is internationally recognised. The Turkish Cypriots are supported only by neighbouring Turkey.

Since 1974 too, an international economic embargo against the Turkish Cypriots has been in place. As a result, the port of Famagusta – the best on the island – has become neglected, serving only Turkish freighters.

Reopen the port

Yet trade had long been Famagusta’s bread and butter. During medieval times, it was one of the richest cities on earth, thanks to its location as a frontier post between Christian Europe and the Muslim Middle East.

“Famagusta has 37 centuries of history,” says Skordis. “We have proposed that some joint Turkish-Greek Cypriot company could be set up, under European Union or United Nations regulation, to reopen the port. It would give us a great opportunity to start the process of bringing us back together.”

Cars in Varosha lay rusting where they were in 1974
 
However, such schemes have gone nowhere in the heated disputes over the island’s future.

“We Turkish Cypriots have long shown our willingness to reopen Varosha,” says Sahinoglu. “We were very hopeful too a couple of years ago this would happen.”

Then, a UN plan to reunite the island and take down the barbed wire was put to a referendum in both Cypriot communities. But the Greek Cypriots rejected the plan almost as strongly as the Turkish Cypriots accepted it.

“There’s no willingness to share, that we can see,” continues Sahinoglu. There’s no light at the end of this tunnel.”

Haunted

Back at the line of tattered oil drums that cuts across what was once a major boulevard, dusk is falling. A battered Coca-Cola sign creaks slowly in the slight breeze above the permanently shuttered Agamemnon Cafe.

“Sometimes, at night, it’s very scary living here,” says Ahmet Ustuoglu, a Turk from the mainland who, in the late 1970s, like many others, settled with his family in an abandoned Greek Cypriot house next to the fenced-off phantom city.

“You look across there and you know there are streets and houses and apartment blocks, and cinemas and restaurants and shops – but there are no lights. Not one. It is like the end of the world, just there, across the street from you.”

And the ghost city looks likely to cast its shadow over the island for some time to come, as the two sides continue to argue over its future.

Pictures by Jody Sabral
Aljazeera
By Jonathan Gorvett in Famagusta

You can find this article at:
http://english.aljazeera.net/NR/exeres/6F295BEA-7587-4234-A22B-7988BCB35A55.htm