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New York’s Greek scene gets a fancy-pants makeover > Every so often in NYC, a down-home cuisine gets an uptown makeover

Now, modern Greek chefs are aiming to elevating the traditional to an art form. Restaurants like Anthos, 36 W. 52nd St., where star chef Michael Psilakis is freshening Aegean fare with inventive dishes like swordfish with Cypriot sausage and baby octopus, are experimenting with classic flavors and twisting the expected in delicious new ways.

New this summer to Psilakis’ menu are the sublime swordfish sliders he’s making for lunch. Made of ground swordfish belly mixed with fennel, mustard seeds and coriander, the bite-size patties sit on a brioche bun with zucchini tzatziki sauce and green tomato compote.

“The explosion of modern Greek food stems from an emphasis on the health benefits of the Mediterranean diet,” says Psilakis. “There have been studies that Greek is the healthiest.”

While figs are still in season, order the refreshing fig martini at Ovelia, 34-01 30th Ave., Astoria, a lively corner spot. The signature dish: garides Ovelia, six jumbo shrimp wrapped in roasted eggplant, topped with feta cheese that’s been lightly blackened from broiling.

Cavernous Thalassa, 179 Franklin St., prepares striking food equal to its dramatic old-warehouse setting. Maine diver scallops are wrapped in shredded phyllo dough, and dressed with sheep’s milk butter. For dessert: homemade fig ice cream.

“It is not surprising that diners are seeking a ‘haute Hellenic’ experience,” says Sofia Zilo, Thalassa’s general manager.

Even in Astoria, a former landmark taverna has been reborn as Christos Steak House, 41-08 23rd Ave., and there, the classic steak au poivre comes with a sauce spiked with Metaxa, the worldwide famous Greek brandy.

At cozy Kellari, 19 W. 44th St., chef Gregory Zapanti dresses up a traditional fish like red snapper with a pistachio and feta crust. On top: a balsamic lime vinaigrette.

Periyali, 35 W. 20th St., was a pioneer in upscale Greek cuisine when it opened 20 years ago. Today chef James Henderson is turning wintry lamb into a light summer meal: lamb tenderloin gets dressed with arugula and Kalamata olive vinaigrette.

Diane Kochilas, the consulting chef at Pylos, 128 E. Seventh St., is among the trend’s leaders. She turns traditional hoirini brizola Pylos into something unique by marinating double-cut pork chops in a sweet sauce, then stuffing them with feta and olives.

At Agnanti Meze, 78-02 Fifth Ave., Bay Ridge, there’s one appetizer you won’t find anywhere else: Spartan kayianas are scrambled eggs with chopped tomatoes, pieces of orange peel, and smoked ham cured in orange juice.

Sounds crazy, but turns out delicious. With Greek food, the opportunity for innovation is built in. “Greek food is simple,” says Ioannis Giannakis, chef and owner of Ovelia. “Which allows chefs to introduce new flavors and techniques, ultimately modernizing the cuisine.”

You don’t have to go to Santorini or Mikonos to get a taste of Greece. > Just take a drive down Highway 97, through the pines of Satus Pass, to St. John’s Bakery, Coffee & Gifts.

The sisters of St. John the Forerunner Greek Orthodox Monastery pray as they bake. Perhaps that’s why their treats, baklava, biscotti, gyros, mousakas, souvlaki, are so good. They’re blessed.

The sisters make a variety of Greek sweets, from indokarydo, coconut cake, to kourambiedes, toasted almond crescent-shaped cookies topped with plenty of powdered sugar. They also offer a full espresso bar, including traditional Greek coffee and chocolate-covered espresso beans. And they recently started making their own chocolates.

The sisters offer lunch and snack foods, too. There’s dolmadakia, vine leaves stuffed with beef, rice, onions, oils, herbs and spices, spanakopita, spinach, cheese, onions, oils, herbs and spices in buttery philo dough, gyros, strips of seasoned beef, tomato and onion wrapped in grilled pita bread, mousakas, layers of eggplant, potatoes and cheeses, topped with a tomato and meat sauce, souvlaki, seasoned meat shishkabobs, and Greek salad with tomatoes, cucumbers, bell peppers, onions, feta cheese and olives. Don’t forget the fresh tzatziki sauce, a combination of yogurt, cucumbers, olive oil, vinegar, garlic and spices.

The sisters opened their shop, popular with truckers and tourists heading to Goldendale or Portland or the Yakima Valley, in 2002. Since then, word has spread. The sisters and community volunteers, some are mothers of the nuns, who staff are the shop are hospitable, knowledgeable and kind.

You don’t have to be hungry or thirsty to stop in, though. The sisters also sell handiwork, from handmade soaps and lotions, in scents like milk and almond, apple spice, honeysuckle, tea tree, sandalwood, honey cinnamon and vanilla spice, to beeswax candles, incense, CDs, books and religious icons.

Instead of tips, the sisters ask customers to give money to help feed the hungry. We say, instead of stopping to see the sisters on the way to somewhere else, make St. John’s the destination. And stock up.

RECOMMENDED DISH > Baklava is a well-known favorite. Layers of buttery philo dough are filled with nuts and soaked in a syrup of honey, citrus and spices. One triangular piece costs about $3. Boxes of the dessert range in price from $7.50 to $15.99. Or, try a combination box of baklava and kourambiedes for $6.70.

OTHER TREATS > Galaktoboureko is a lemon custard baked in philo dough, doused with syrup and sprinkled with powdered sugar and cinnamon. One piece costs about $3. Don’t be shy: Ask the sisters to heat up a piece in the microwave.  “It’s nicer when it’s warm,” says Sister Iosiphia.

Small appetitie? Opt for a plain piece of biscotti for 99 cents, or dipped in chocolate for $1.15. Hours: St. John’s, located at 2378 Highway 97, 10 miles north of Goldendale, is open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. every day except Sundays. Call 773-6650.

Even if the Greek language remains a mystery for most Indians, the food from the region is not

That the Mediterranean food has proved to be a hit among Delhiites is now a given. Whether it is the various types of pizzas, or even pasta or falafel, food from Italy, Spain and Lebanon has been drawing appreciative responses from a lot of people. Jostling for space among the cuisines from the sunny climes is Greek food. It’s Greek To Me, which started last year in an upmarket south Delhi locality, has launched its second outlet, in Defence Colony Market.

“There are a lot of expatriates here who are appreciative of our dishes so it made sense for us to launch another store,” says Kanav Grover, one of the owners of the restaurant. “We wanted to focus on cuisine from a single country. We researched for some months. And as there are already a number of Italian or other restaurants, we three partners settled for Greek cuisine,” says Grover.

Greek food is characterised by its extensive use of olive oil, says Grover, besides the extensive use of feta and grills. “Greeks are fairly similar to Indians. They are hardworking people and eat heartily at mealtimes. So our portions are pretty big too,” elaborates Grover. The restaurant offers a wide range of dishes, soups, dips, salads, mezze and, of course, main courses. You could start with a soup like the Hellenic Faki Broth or the Avgolemono and come to crunchy salads.

The mezzes come in a wide range, many of which are seafood based. These include marinated squid platter, prawn Skaithos, Santorini fish fingers and others. There are chicken or veg dishes like souvlaki, choice of chicken or lamb chunks, skewered with bell pepper and onions grilled and served with tzatziki, as well. But do not get trapped in this course, for the main course awaits you. From the more commonplace salmon steak to river sole fillet to exotic koto psari pilafi, choice of chicken or seafood, pilafi of Greek rice, kalamari, prawns, snapper and chicken chirozo or the baked chicken vasilikos, seared chicken breast with scarmozza cheese, mushroom and ham drizzled with creamy pesto sauce topped with almonds, and vegetable moussaka, sauteed eggplant layered with zucchini, scallions, tomatoes, carrots, green peppers and herbs baked with assorted cheese, there is a lot to choose from.

Though there are many delicious dips, an integral part of Greek food, the special ones include tzatziki, shredded and pressed cucumber with garlic, yogurt and olive oil, or hummus, chickpeas blended with garlic, olive oil, lemon juice and tahini. Most dishes are accompanied by dips, though you can order them separately too. Do not miss the Greek chocolate magic souffle for a wonderful rounding off. The food is balanced between vegetarian and non-vegetarian.

“We have taken care to see that there are enough vegetarian options,” says Grover. “We have an open kitchen, so you can see what is going into preparing your dish,” he says. Is it a challenge getting the raw materials? “We import about 70% of our ingredients from various places in Europe, though our meats and seafood are local,” he says.

The prices are competitive too, and the target clientele comprises mid-level executives and families. The restaurnt too has inviting sea blue sofas with cushions that one could just sink into after a relaxed meal. Next time you want to try out something new, do it the Greek way!

Ari’s Greek-American Cuisine, 3101 Hampton Avenue; 314-644-4264
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Sat., 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.

Colossus, 3208 Ivanhoe Avenue; 314-644-5599
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.-Thu., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat.

Mediterranean House Apollonia, 6836 Gravois Avenue; 314-353-1488
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.-Thu., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat.

Remember crazy, wild nights at Orestes?

Then catch cofounder Aristedes Pasparakis in the flesh at Barbara-Jo’s Books to Cooks, 1128 Mainland Street, at his New Greek Cuisine, his take on modern Greek eating.

For reservations call 604-688-6755.

Tallinn > If you’ve walked down Pikk Street any time in the past, it’s safe to say that you already know about Tallinn’s latest culinary import. With a Greek flag flying proudly over the door, a mannequin in full national costume ready to greet you and a bright, blue sign cheerfully offering “Traditional Greek Souvlaki,” Artemis is certainly not trying to be coy.

Souvlaki, for those of us who can’t seem to get any closer to southern Europe than Parnu, is a dish that’s sometimes referred to as “the hamburger of Greece.” Not that it comes anywhere close to a Big Mac. Souvlaki are actually delicate skewers of meat that, like the hamburger in America, are fast, cheap and pretty much everywhere.

I popped in to see what this little cafe was all about, and at first glance, found pretty much what I expected. The cafe is just that, a cafe, small, bright and fairly informal, with eight simple tables for no-nonsense eating. In dinner party fashion, little placards name each table after a Greek island, while Mediterranean pipe tunes add to the ambience. If the menu looks as recognizeable as a slate of hieroglyphics, you can turn to the back wall’s large, color pictures for guidance. The dish choices consist mostly of chicken or pork souvlaki, with or without pita, and four types of salads.

My biggest surprise came in finding real, honest-to-goodness Greeks. It turns out that Artemis is run by two guys who, for what must be very good reasons, decided to give up the Mediterranean climate and open up a business here. This shot of authenticity was definitely a refreshing change. Anyone who has been in Tallinn long enough will know that most ethnic restaurants in this class are run by a mobile-phone-wielding guy called Seryozha, who tries to pass off shashlyk with raisins as an exotic Oriental delicacy.

After a friendly chat with the proprietor, something that would never happen with Seryozha, I opted for the grilled feta. On the surface, a piece of cheese wrapped in aluminum foil doesn’t sound too exciting, but this was spicy, tangy and pleasantly stuck to my ribs.

A few days later I dragged a friend back to the cafe with me. The experience was somewhat different. By now, word was out, and the place was getting crowded. An atmosphere of frantic activity seemed to reign behind the counter, where three young waitresses were jockeying for a position. Every so often one of the Greeks would poke his head out of the kitchen to deliver a take-away order. One waitress recommended a certain chicken dish. Ten seconds later, when my friend ordered it, the same woman inexplicably informed us that they were out.

I asked for the same grilled feta, which at 55kr (3.5 euros), was one of the more expensive choices. My friend had the pork souvlaki in a pita for 35kr, and she was frankly not very impressed. “I could have made this at home,” she claimed, showing me a pita in which the cook had apparently tried to fit the equivalent of a whole onion. She also pointed out something that I had missed, namely that the portions here, while cheap, are more snack-sized than meal-sized.

The bottom line: Artemis is fine for what it is, and if you’re looking for a simple, fast, cheap place to eat that’s more interesting than the standard cafe grub, you’ve found it. But just don’t expect anything fancy. And if you’re hungry, consider ordering two dishes.

Cafe Serghei, 67 Bridge Sreet, Glasgow, 0141 429 1547 > Occupying a former bank in the Gorbals, this sprawling sepulchral restaurant even comes with its own small dance floor, presumably for those Dionysian celebrations for which the Greeks are so famed. Home-made taramosalata, hummus, spanakopita and lamb keftedes are served with Olympian levels of swiftness, although the latter have been known to run out on busy days and transform miraculously into moussaka. Still, it’s a cheerful, rough and ready eatery in an area of Glasgow not renowned for its culinary institutions.

Susie’s Wholefood Diner, 51-53 West Nicolson Street, Edinburgh 0131 667 8729 > Although not technically a Greek restaurant, 100% vegetarian cuisine is something of an anomaly in this nation of dedicated lamb-spitters, this well-loved Edinburgh diner is noted by the local Greek community for rustling up the finest spanakopita in the land. Should the delightful owner Ian Wilson not be busy with the rolling pin when you drop by, fear not, his home-made hummus and Greek salad are perennial staples and you may even be lucky enough to catch a plate of his delicious baklava warm from the oven.

Antoniou’s, 523 Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow, 0141 221 7636 > The walls of this Glasgow restaurant are lined with reminders from the homeland: holiday snaps of rocky islands, faux mosaics and a relief map of Cyprus, the diameter of which is probably only slighter smaller than the owner Mario Marques’ infectious gap-toothed smile. Dedicated Grecians should inquire about his “famous Greek night”, a hedonistic riot of tzatziki, coriander keftedes and lamb souvlaki on skewers followed by dancing and plate smashing. The main menu recommends the meze selection, while à la carte dishes include moussaka and a signature chicken dish which comes stuffed with spinach, feta cheese and halloumi, traditional Cypriot cheese.