Cypriot wines with character

Xinisteri is the most popular grape cultivated in Cyprus. Here we try several bottles made from it

I have recently tasted some interesting wines from the indigenous white grape variety, Xinisteri. It accounts for 2,200 hectares under cultivation and is the most wide-spread white grape variety in the Cyprus vineyard. Selected regions for Xinisteri cultivation are Kathikas, Vouni, Panayias, Pitsilia, the Akamas, Laona and Ambelitis.

Xinisteri generally produces fresh, light wines with low alcohol levels, not amenable for ageing and I have always recommended that the wine should be drunk young. Definitely, this is the only indigenous white variety with a significant role in Cyprus winemaking.

Overall, I am impressed with Xinisteri 2006. It is progressing well and it is, in fact, our only hope on the indigenous grapes chapter, not forgetting that this grape is the base of Commandaria. Can’t wait to check on harvest 2007.

2006 Ayioklima, Constantinou Winery, Limassol Region, Alcohol Volume 11.5% > This is a wine from self-taught winemaker Costas Constantinou, who has a small winery at Pera Pedi. Talking to Costas, you realise that he means business. Things are now more dynamic, especially once he moved to his new winery.

Ayioklima is a Xinisteri varietal, probably one of the best I have tasted. Harmony is what I would have named it. Crisp acidity yet silky texture give this wine a complementary ying/yang structure. Light yellow in colour with a touch of green, typical Xinisteri, the nose offers exquisite layers of passion fruit, banana, pineapple, green apple and nectarine with a very subtle herbaceousness. It is not the most complex Xinisteri I have tried but probably the most correct. This is a dry wine on the palate, the barely perceptible residual sugar is balanced by good acidity and a hint of spritz, the body light to medium. There is more citrus fruit on the palate with more lime at the aftertaste. The quintessential fried red mullet, wine, grilled prawns, steamed mussels and soft goat cheese at 9 degrC, fabulous value too.

2006 Amalthia, Fikardos Winery, Pafos Region, Alcohol Volume 12.5% > From another master of Xinisteri, Theodoros Fikardos, who has opted to blend his Xinisteri with the imported varietal of Semillon, the renowned varietal of Bordeaux at Graves and Pessac Leognan. Theodoros prefers his whites with more body, adding flavour and fragrances, mass and balance to the Xinisteri as well as extending the lifespan of the wine.

A very good varietal exhibition; it has a clear, yellow and light green colour. The nose of Amalthia has been improved over the last three years, clean, with a fruity and herbal character, predominantly green apple and pineapple, melon and white peach with just enough grass to tell you that the highest percentage in the bottle is Xinisteri. Light to medium body, dry and crisp, slightly creamier than usual, with good length, subtle flavours of dry grass and citrus fruit, grapefruit, lime. This wine is perfect as an aperitif or with high acid foods like my boiled shrimps drizzled with lemon butter sauce, served at 9 degrC.

2006 Ayia Irini, Fikardos Winery, Pafos Region, Alcohol Volume 12% > Similar blend to Amalthia, however with more residual sugar in order to classify this wine as medium dry. It is yellow green and a bit more intense on the colour with a subtle, round nose, projecting more ripe fruit, as in melon, pineapple and yellow apple with the barest hint of herbal characters. Velvety and smooth on the palate, pink grapefruit character and with crisp acidity. Nectarine note and a herbal overlay in the finish. Great with shellfish and spicy foods at 9 degrC.

2006 Katerina, Fikardos Winery, Pafos Region, Alcohol Volume 12% > Fragrant indeed with the addition of some carbon dioxide. In a blind tasting I would have confused this wine with Asti. Yellow with yet more residual sugar so that it can be described as medium sweet wine. But this is a well balanced wine; displaying some honey and butterscotch aromas yet orange and lemon peel are more predominant. More fruit as in banana, pineapple and guava. Medium bodied and velvety palate, the bracing acidity keeps it from being cloying. Goes beautifully with cheese course, as an aperitif or at 9 degrC pair it with veal and pork with sweetening sauces.

2006 Aes Ambelis Winery Dry white, Limassol Regional, Alcohol Volume 12.5% > Back to Limassol region and a winery located in Kalo Chorio Orinis. Aes Ambelis winery has been one of the most innovative and progressive wineries on the island and it is not by accident that it has already collected a few medals. This blend of Xinisteri and Semillon has a bright, greenish yellow colour, while the aromatic and fruit character is dominated by orange blossoms, fig, lime, green apple, pear and muted melon with some herbal edges. Stylish, though not very complex, this is a medium-bodied white, which is round in the mid-palate, tart and citrusy to the finish. Emphatically varietal, it is a good fit with shellfish.